Montelupo Italian Market
1613 SE Bybee Blvd, Portland, OR 97202
I have a treat for you today as I take you on a journey to Montelupo, an Italian bakery tucked away in the heart of Portland, Oregon. I'll delve into the menu of Montelupo, from their awesome pizzas to their just okay salads, and share my thoughts on this charming Italian eatery.
A Glimpse into Montelupo
Nestled behind unassuming doors, Montelupo surprised me with a vibrant array of Italian food. I would not call this a bakery per se, but it has some amazing focaccia to back up their pizza. Beyond the pizza and ready made salads, they have a few options you can bring home with you as well. From homemade tiramisu, to bottles of wine, dry pasta, and sauces you can make yourself a full Italian inspired dinner even if you decide you don’t want to order pizza. But I am here for the pizza, so let’s dive in.
The Pizza Lineup
Pizzas took center stage at Montelupo, and I couldn't resist sampling three different varieties:
Sausage Pizza: This pizza was generously greasy, with succulent sausage, broccolini, and perhaps a hint of sweetness. The greasiness seemed to add to its charm, even if it ruined my favorite jeans. The focaccia was crispy but chewy, tender but meaty and it had bubbles in all of the right places. As far as the sweetness goes, I wasn’t expecting it but it was a welcome addition. Some may not want sweet on their pizza, so you might want to try a different slice if that’s the case. Solid 8 of 10.
Mama ‘Lils Pizza: I have a history with Mama ‘Lil’s. When I worked at a sourdough bakery we also had a style of pizza similar to what they have at Montelupo. We would do up the pizza with sausage, Mama ‘Lil’s, sauce, cheese and finish it with a drizzle of creme fraiche when it was served. This pizza from Montelupo brought me back to that. The focaccia on this one was delicious as well and didn’t have a lot of grease on it. It was spicy, tangy, saucy, salty, creamy from the seasoned mascarpone. Everything I could want from a pizza and a solid 9 of 10.
Potato Pizza:
The potato pizza is very, very unassuming. In a phrase, it is the least offensive of the pizzas I have had today. Not in a bad way mind you. The potato pizza was easy to eat, smooth, salty, meaty and had a good amount of flavor carried by the rosemary and nuttiness from the grana padana (a sort of parmesean). If I were to come here for a slice that is delicious and that wouldn’t put me in bed for a day, this would be the slice. Solid 8 of 10.
Honorable mention to the radicchio salad. It was fine, but not my favorite. A wedge of lemon or something acidic would have gone a long way here. 5 of 10 for me.
The Neighborhood
Montelupo isn't just about the food; it's also about the ambiance. Nearby is a hidden gem called “The Bible Room”, a speak easy that has some of the most amazing cocktails and ambiance you can find in the Portland area. I highly recommend grabbing reservations for the Bible Room and grabbing a slice of pizza while you wait for your table.
The Price
Quality often comes with a price, and Montelupo is no exception. The total bill, including a tip, ranged from $45 to $50. Individual slices of pizza were priced between $7 to $9. While it may not be the cheapest dining option, the portion sizes and flavors certainly justify the cost. You could also split a slice of pizza with someone and have a side salad or half sandwich.
A Baker's Perspective
What makes this visit even more interesting is my previous experience working in a bakery. I drew parallels between Montelupo's pizza offerings and other styles, such as Grandma's Pizza and Detroit style pizza. I feel like there are various names for the same thing when it comes to pizza, but that might be offensive for some so I will keep that to myself.
Your Turn to Decide
Now it's your turn to decide if it's worth a visit. With a diverse menu, delicious pizzas, and a cozy atmosphere, it's certainly an enticing option for Italian food lovers. So, if you find yourself in Portland or plan to visit soon, consider stopping by Montelupo for a taste of authentic Italian flavors and some damn good pizza.
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